June 2024

For this season FW23, the Paris Fashion Week has asserted a message that could not be clearer: fashion is really a serious thing, and we are not there just to chat in the front row. Black and white, red, leather, androgynous tailoring. About lengths : from very long to really short. In other words, the quintessence of a totally Parisian fashion, nervous, urban, with a strong character. It should be noted that in terms of fashion-geopolitics, the PFW benefits from an unprecedented effect of attraction, draining to it more and more designers from other capitals: Victoria Beckham, Peter Dundas, Zimmerman among others ... some presenting their first or second show in Paris. And a number of young labels have recently emerged, confirming their raison d'être and their relevance.So, this season Carlin Creative offers you a 100% Paris analysis!

Dark Vestal :

A bit gothic, a bit witchy, here comes our romantic heroine with a dark temperament, our amazon of dark times:

Ann Demeulemeester / Chanel
Enfants Riches Déprimés / Off-white

Banker stripes

The iconic trend of this PFW, the embodiment of the season's signature power-suiting, to be treated at face value or subtly diverted :

Saint Laurent / Stella McCartney
Alexander Mc Queen / Dries Van Noten


Surprise, while the angular and protruding carrures seemed to have won the bet, we see again coats with eggshape volumes:

AWAKE mode / Courrèges
Givenchy / Isabel Marant

Big Fur

Fake fur has liberated complexes, so we go all out on maximized proportions, the more voluminous it is, the better it is!

Eenk / Loewe
Palm Angels / Situationist


We have seen many pants with ample volume partially hidden by a layering effect, in combination or hybridization:

AZ Factory / Balenciaga
Chanel / Givenchy

Re-Ingeneered Denim

A handful of Parisian labels have decided to reinvent denim, radically rethinking denimwear constructions:

Rokh / Y-Project
Alaïa / Coperni

Stretch drapes

Worked in extension in stretch jersey, the drapes suddenly take on an innovative and tech dimension like an urban mermaid:

Atlein / Coperni
Marine Serre / Rokh


Characteristic of this nervous line which reigns on the Parisian collections, the top of the bust is cut according to a clear and sharp line:

Alexander McQueen / Louis Vuitton
Calvin Luo / Stella McCartney

Couture Knots

Directly from the vocabulary of haute-couture, the big opulent bows of the 80s overplay the codes of chic in a sometimes theatrical version:

Balmain / Gmbh
Nina Ricci / Zimmermann

Little knits

A small sweater or a small cardi with a pattern, as a colorful and shifted wink in a world of bullies in suits:

Louis Vuitton / Miu Miu
Chanel / Christian Dior

Short AND Long

Indeed, it is the question as old as humanity; will it be the fashion of the long or the short next winter? Well, both, or the art of not choosing:

Dundas / Givenchy
Marine Serre / Valentino

Like a handbag

Geometric quilting on a black background, directly inspired by luggage and the world of handbags, from head to toe:

Patou / Balmain
Chanel / Louis Vuitton

The dots come back

Probably boosted by the recent Yayoi Kusama / Vuitton collab' that had flooded social networks, polka dots are back in force:

Nina Ricci / Valentino
Balmain / Miu Miu

Red, that's it!

Victoria Beckham / Loewe
Stella McCartney / Y-Project


Yes, there is an alternative to the flood of black and white, it is this beautiful palette of warm tones, amber shades like a cognac:

Schiapparelli / Miu Miu
Dries Van Noten / Louis Vuitton

A voir aussi : 

-Les chiens robots de Boston Dynamics chez Coperni :

-Les motifs révélés aux rayons UV chez Unrealage :

-Les débuts du trublion Harris Reed chez Nina Ricci :

-Les silhouettes scintillantes et irréelles de chez Noir Kei Ninomiya :

-A Milan, le show Bottega Veneta signé par le franco-belge Matthieu Blazy :

-Diesel ou la résurrection des années 2000 devant une montagne de préservatifs à logo :

Thomas Zylberman
Senior Designer Women's RTW

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